AMGA SPI Courses + Exams

Prerequisites

• You are a Professional Member of the AMGA.
• You have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.
• You are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.
• You have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.
• You are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
• You have led a minimum of 15 traditional rock climbing routes (any grade).
• You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.

The above prerequisites are absolute minimums. Without having at least this amount experience you are unlikely to make best use of the training.

Sample Itinerary

Day 1

• Session 1: SPI and AMGA Program Overview
• Session 2: Professionalism
• Session 3: Equipment
• Session 4: Knots and Hitches
• Session 5: Belaying
• Session 6: Protection and Anchoring
• Session 7: Teaching
• End of Day Debriefs

Day 2

• Session 8: The Climbing Site
• Session 9: Site Organization and Group Management
• Session 10: Base Managed Sites
• Session 11: Assistance Skills – Base Managed Sites
• Session 12: Programming and Risk Management
• End of Day Debriefs

Day 3

• Session 13: Instructor Demo Lead Climb
• Session 14: Top Managed Sites
• Session 15: Lowering
• Session 16: Assistance Skills – Top Managed Sites
• Session 17: Rappelling
• Session 18: Climbing Movement
• Session 19: Review Sessions
• Final Individual and Group Debriefs

Curriculum

SPI and AMGA Program Overview

The participant will be able to articulate an understanding of the SPI Program, AMGA organization, programs, certification levels, history and mission.

Professionalism

Candidates will be able to describe the traits of a professional instructor and embody those traits as an instructor.

Equipment

Participants will have comprehensive knowledge of equipment and materials used in single- pitch climbing instruction, and will be familiar with its use, care, applications, and storage.

Knots and Hitches

Candidates will demonstrate proficiency in tying and understanding of the application of the following knots and hitches: Figure 8 family, Overhand family, Double overhand on a bight (BHK), Ring bend, Clove hitch, Girth hitch, Bowlines, Münter hitch, Münter mule, Friction hitches (autoblock, Prusik, Klemhiest), Double fisherman’s bend, Flat Overhand (Patagonia Knot)

Belaying

Candidates will demonstrate a thorough understanding of belay devices, techniques and communication. Candidates must also exhibit the ability to teach belaying clearly.

Protection and Anchoring

Candidates will demonstrate a comprehensive understanding of anchoring principles and risk management strategies for single pitch crags.

Teaching

Candidates will demonstrate an understanding of different learning styles and proficiency in both instructing in a group setting and coaching on an individual basis.

Selecting the Climbing Site

Candidates will be able to research climbing areas and interpret guidebooks, topos and climbing web sites in order to select appropriate sites for institutional climbing. Candidates will be familiar with the various land management structures in the US and their varying permitting requirements.

Site Organization and Group Management

Candidates will demonstrate proficiency in site organization and group management in both top and bottom managed situations. Candidates will demonstrate an understanding of both the environmental and social issues involved in commercial guiding in single pitch settings.

Base-Managed Sites

Candidates will demonstrate an understanding of the rationale for working at the bottom of single pitch crags and proficiency in the skills required to operate in this setting.

Assistance Skills: Base-Managed Sites

Candidates will be able to perform a variety of assistance skills that may be required when working at the base of a single pitch crag.

Programming and Risk Management

Candidates will demonstrate an understanding of programming and risk management issues involved in single pitch instruction.

Lead Climbing

Course instructor completion of a single-pitch trad lead climb demonstrating sound leading practices and considerations for student belaying of lead climbs.

Top-Managed Sites

Candidates will comprehend the rationale for choosing to operate from the tops of crags and display proficiency in the skills needed to execute these systems.

Lowering

Candidates will demonstrate proficiency at lowering clients and the use of appropriate back- ups.

Assistance Skills: Top-Managed Sites

Candidates must possess the skills to assist climbers from the top of a crag in a single-pitch setting.

Rappelling

Candidates will be able to set up and manage institutional rappels, employ appropriate back- ups and execute assistance/rescue techniques.

Climbing Movement

Candidates will understand the principles of climbing movement and be proficient in teaching climbing movement skills in a group setting and coaching individual clients.